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<span style="font-size:13.5pt;color:#949494;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.85pt"><a href="https://ohiograpeweb.cfaes.ohio-state.edu/blog/"><span style="color:#949494">Buckeye Appellation Blog</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<span style="font-size:19.5pt;color:#BA0000"><a href="https://ohiograpeweb.cfaes.ohio-state.edu/blog/march-11-2024-1230pm/2024-pruning-primer"><span style="color:#BA0000">2024 Pruning Primer</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></h2>
<p style="margin-bottom:.75pt"><span style="font-size:10.5pt;color:#666666">Monday, March 11th, 2024<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p><em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">By: Maria Smith, HCS-OSU</span></em><span style="color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666">It’s still winter, but thanks to this El Niño year, it sure hasn’t felt like it in Ohio. Daily average temperatures over the past 30 days have ranged between 6-10 °F above the 30-year mean (Fig. 1). Many of our vineyards are likely
taking advantage of this weather to prune the vines for the upcoming year. To those with smaller vineyards (< 10 acres), there is still plenty of time to get your pruning done through March and early April before buds begin to break dormancy. For a year with
this mild of a late-winter, <a href="https://ohiograpeweb.cfaes.ohio-state.edu/blog/archive/202204">
delaying your dormant pruning</a> as long as possible can be considered advantageous to staving off bud break among your preferred yield-producing buds. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666">The goal of this post is to remind you and your crew about pruning best practices following last week’s Wooster grapevine pruning workshop. In 2023, we published a
<a href="https://ohiograpeweb.cfaes.ohio-state.edu/blog/march-15-2023-1225pm/2023-grape-pruning-primer">
<span style="color:#005581">pruning primer article</span></a> about the what, when, and whys of pruning. In this companion article, we’ll touch on vineyard sanitation and a few routine pruning errors so that you can maximize the long-term health and productivity
of your vines.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666"><img border="0" width="363" height="484" style="width:3.7812in;height:5.0416in" id="Picture_x0020_15" src="cid:image003.jpg@01DA73B0.A05CB700" alt="A map of the united states
Description automatically generated"></span><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">Fig 1</span></strong><span style="color:#666666">. 30-day Average temperature departure from mean Feb 9, 2024 – March 9, 2024. Photo from
<a href="https://mrcc.purdue.edu"><span style="color:#005581">https://mrcc.purdue.edu</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">Vineyard Sanitation:</span></strong><span style="color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666">Did you have grape diseases in the vineyard during 2023? Fungal diseases such as Anthracnose, Phomopsis, and black rot are well-known to overwinter on woody tissues (canes, cordons, trunks) and persistent mummified fruit that
was left in the vineyard overwinter (Fig. 2). These infected tissues go on to serve as a source of pathogen propagules for infecting new, healthy tissue over the next growing cycle. Similarly,
<a href="https://www.canr.msu.edu/grapes/uploads/files/GrapeFacts-CrownGall-web.pdf">
<span style="color:#005581">crown gall bacteria</span></a> (<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Agrobacterium vitis</span></em>, Fig. 3) can persist for years in infected tissues and is managed through renewal of vine parts during pruning.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666"><a href="http://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-gen-05.pdf"><span style="color:#005581">Vineyard sanitation</span></a>, or the act of removing and destroying dormant, infected tissues while pruning can aid in the reduction
of pathogen populations available to infect in subsequent seasons. If disease was a significant issue in your vineyard, it is best practice to destroy tissue by burning, burying, or removing completely from the vineyard rather than composting, since inadequate
temperatures during composting can fail to kill propagules. Sanitation should also extend to tools through regular cleaning and sharpening (sharp-cut pruning wounds heal quicker) of pruning tools.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666"><img border="0" width="256" height="341" style="width:2.6666in;height:3.552in" id="Picture_x0020_14" src="cid:image004.jpg@01DA73B0.A05CB700"><img border="0" width="255" height="341" style="width:2.6562in;height:3.552in" id="Picture_x0020_13" src="cid:image005.jpg@01DA73B0.A05CB700"></span><span style="color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">Fig 2</span></strong><span style="color:#666666">. Phomopsis lesions (left) will persist on shoots that lignify and become canes; black rot mummy berries (right)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666"><img border="0" width="345" height="460" style="width:3.5937in;height:4.7916in" id="Picture_x0020_12" src="cid:image006.jpg@01DA73B0.A05CB700"></span><span style="color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">Fig. 3</span></strong><span style="color:#666666"> Grape trunk infected with crown gall, a bacterium that causes tumor-like growths (galls) on infected woody tissues (trunks, cordons, roots).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666">HOWEVER, if your vineyard was clean of disease, cuttings may be mulched using a flail mower or brush hog (Fig. 4) directly in the row. Avoid using a regular lawn mower deck to chop up pruned wood, especially larger pieces of trunks
or cordons. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666"><img border="0" width="348" height="262" style="width:3.625in;height:2.7291in" id="Picture_x0020_11" src="cid:image007.jpg@01DA73B0.A05CB700" alt="Close-up of a machine in the grass
Description automatically generated"></span><span style="color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">Fig. 4</span></strong><span style="color:#666666"> Flails on a rotating drum. Flail mowers and brush hogs can chop up small diameter woody materials. Photo from:
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flail_mower"><span style="color:#005581">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flail_mower</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#666666">Routine pruning and training issues:</span></strong><span style="color:#666666"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#666666">Grape pruning and training are not intuitive, and even experienced practitioners make mistakes in the process. Here are a few of the most common issues that I encounter when out assessing vineyards in the late-winter:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<li class="MsoNormal" style="color:#666666;mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1">
<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Training weak wood</span></em>: healthy wood is 1) ¼ to ½” in diameter, 2) sun exposed in the previous year, 3) has dark brown periderm (outer bark). Canes that are small and weak or large and vegetative are
less cold hardy and less productive than optimal wood quality.<o:p></o:p></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="color:#666666;mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1">
<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Retaining excessive bud numbers after final pruning</span></em>: Pruning should remove approximately 80-90% of the vine growth from the previous season. Retaining too many buds after final pruning sets the
vine up to produce shoots with smaller clusters and less shoot growth than vines with an “optimal” number of buds. Refer to the Midwest Grape Production Guide for guidance on balanced pruning practices.<o:p></o:p></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="color:#666666;mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1">
<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Training cordons that are too long</span></em>: Cordons are best established in segments of 12 to 15” in length, especially in
<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Vinifera</span></em> cultivars. This is to encourage all buds along the cane to develop into healthy shoots. Leaving excessively long cane segments while training or retraining cordons can result in blank regions
where shoots do not develop, thus leading to canopy gaps and a less productive vineyard.<o:p></o:p></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="color:#666666;mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1">
<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Making poor pruning cuts</span></em>: Wounding on the vine is an entry to pathogen infections. This includes pruning wounds. Avoiding large flush cuts on older (2+ year-old wood), using sharp pruning shears,
and pruning in dry conditions are important to reducing risks for spur/cordon/trunk infections and dieback.<o:p></o:p></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="color:#666666;mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1">
<em><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Consider the spur, cane, and bud position</span></em>: We want to select canes, buds, and spurs that help us best conform to and maintain our training system. When training young vines, bud positioning should
be considered when making cuts to ensure that shoots and subsequent canes are positioned along our fruiting wires without strong bends or breaks at the base that can restrict sap flow through the vascular tissues. Selecting shoots/canes along the trunk that
can be easily arched upwards from under the fruiting wire or those that conform to the fruiting wire when extending/replacing cordons are preferred to shoots/canes that emerge from buds positioned above the fruiting wire. <o:p></o:p></li></ul>
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